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Materials and Craftsmanship

Encaustic and ceramic tile: origins and patterns in older homes

Encaustic and ceramic tiles differ in how their patterns are made. Learn how inlaid, cement and glazed tiles were produced, the designs common in older homes and how to care for them.

A young man wiping an encaustic tiled floor with a cloth as an older woman kneels nearby and points to a section of the tiles, with cleaning supplies including a bucket, sponge, and brush placed on the floor beside them.

Encaustic tile is a clay tile whose pattern is made of differently colored clay set into the body of the tile, rather than painted or glazed on top. Because the color runs through the full thickness of the piece, the design does not wear away when the surface is walked on, which is one reason so many nineteenth-century halls, porches and hearths still show their original patterns. The word also covers a different product, encaustic cement tile, made from pigmented cement and never fired. Telling those two apart is the first step in understanding any patterned floor in an older house.

Ceramic tile is a wider family. It includes unglazed quarry tile, glazed wall tile, tin-glazed earthenware painted over a white glaze, and small mosaic pieces mounted on sheets. Each family has its own manufacturing history and typical designs, so the tiles in a fireplace surround or entry can point to a specific origin and period.

How each type was made

Inlaid encaustic tile began with a mold or stamp that carried the pattern. Recesses were filled with colored clay, usually reds, buffs, browns and blacks, and the body clay was pressed in beneath them. The tile was then dried and fired, so the colors fused with the body. Production grew in British potteries across the nineteenth century, and the same geometric designs reached the United States and other countries through trade and building.

Encaustic cement tile was made by a different route. A mold was filled in layers with a pigmented cement mixture, and the colored top layer formed the wearing surface above a plainer mix. Because cement tile is not fired, it hardens by curing rather than in a kiln. It was popular in late nineteenth- and early twentieth-century houses, and its designs often leaned toward bold floral and geometric motifs that matched the decorative styles of the period.

Quarry tile and glazed ceramic tile were produced in far larger volumes and used in kitchens, back halls, porches and bathrooms. Quarry tile is unglazed and fired to a dense, hard body, which is why it suits heavy foot traffic. Glazed tile relies on a glassy surface that can be plain, colored or printed, and its look depends heavily on the glaze materials of its era. Small mosaic pieces were set in patterns in entries and bathrooms, and they were often sold mounted on paper or mesh sheets so that a whole panel could be laid at once.

Patterns found in American houses

Geometric designs dominate older inlaid floors, with repeating squares, diamonds, octagons and quarter-circle motifs, often framed by a border band of simpler shapes. In American houses, these floors appear most often in entries, vestibules and front porches, where a checkerboard or diagonal layout and a plain border made the pattern read as a field. Earth tones and black are typical, but reproduction tiles copy older patterns closely, so palette and wear alone rarely settle the question of age.

The tile most American homes contain is simpler. White hexagonal and penny-round mosaic tile became common on bathroom floors in the early and mid twentieth century. Subway tile, a glazed rectangle usually laid in a running bond, lined bathroom and kitchen walls and remained common for decades. Colored bathroom tile in pastel and deep shades was popular from the 1920s through the 1950s, often with a field tile and a contrasting border.

Fireplaces give a different set. Victorian surrounds often used glazed tile with relief-molded flowers, leaves or classical motifs that stand up from the surface. Arts and Crafts fireplaces favored matte-glazed tile in earthy greens, browns and blues, and the slight variation from tile to tile is part of the look. Painted tin-glazed tiles from the Netherlands and Portugal appear only occasionally in American houses, usually as imported fireplace or wall panels.

When studying a pattern, check whether it continues consistently. A design that breaks off, mixes motifs or uses the wrong color in one area may mark a later patch made from salvaged tiles. Salvage was common, and a patched floor tells you about the house's history rather than signaling a fault that needs immediate correction.

Telling eras apart and caring for old tile

The most useful evidence is often on the edge or back of a tile. Inlaid encaustic tile shows its pattern colors through the full thickness, so a chipped edge reveals the same design in cross section. A surface-decorated tile shows a different body color beneath its glaze or pattern. Cement tile tends to show a distinct colored top layer above a plainer backing. Maker's marks impressed or printed on the underside can identify the producer, and trade catalogs can sometimes link a mark to a period. Look for these clues only on loose tiles or existing chips, and never break a tile just to see its section.

Crazing, a network of fine cracks in the glaze, develops with age and is typical of older glazed tile. It is cosmetic unless the glaze is loose, lifting or cracked through to the body. A loose tile or a lifting edge is a sign to act before water gets underneath. Mastics and adhesives beneath older floors can contain asbestos, so have a sample tested before scraping, grinding or lifting old flooring.

Cleaning should be gentle. Use a soft brush, clean water and a mild pH-neutral cleaner, and test any product on an inconspicuous spot first. Acid-based cleaners etch the colored layer of cement tile and can damage lime-based grout, while steam and high-pressure washers can drive water into joints and beneath loose tiles. Sealing cement tile can reduce staining, but sealers differ in how they change the surface and whether they trap moisture, so ask a restoration specialist before applying one. When a tile must be replaced, have a specialist source a close match, because an approximate match in color or thickness shows underfoot and in the pattern.

Treat a patterned floor as a record of how it was made and who laid it. Most of its character survives gentle cleaning, careful repair of loose tiles and patience with work that needs a specialist. Each repair that respects the original pattern keeps the room's story legible for the next owner.